A few things happen with passion in Italy in spring. One, is feverish house cleaning. Another, a house blessing by the parish priest. Another again, eating broad beans, also known as fava (pl. fave) or baccelli.
The cleaning and the priest’s blessing it turns out are linked, with the spring cleaning coming first. This came as a surprise to me when I moved here. Needless to say, the first time the holy man knocked on the door, the house was far from gleaming. I can still remember being home alone with our then baby son. I was utterly exhausted, beyond bedraggled, baby sick on my shoulder as I tried to navigate the elderly, but very determined priest, among the piles of washing that were strewn around the apartment. Fortunately, despite his girth, he was a nimble man. And, like the neighbour who had ushered him in, he was cheery and full of the chat. He had come to recite a prayer, sprinkle some holy water in each room, and he was open I understood, to lingering for a coffee, a biscuit, or a glass wine. A bottle of wine, or a cash “offering” I later learnt, would have been a fair exchange for a house blessing but, I was clueless.
That first spring encounter was a long time ago. I no longer have baby sick on my shoulders, although the washing is still known to pile up.
The other spring occurrence of eating fave beans, is separate to the cleaning and the priest, but is executed with the same energy and shrouded with equal reverence.
In Italy eating fava beans seems to be a declaration that winter’s door has been sealed, that early spring is over, and that from now on, only warm and wonderful things lie ahead. It sounds exaggerated, that so much optimism could be invested in a bean, but the fave truly seem to carry that intensity of hope. From May 1st, fave are consumed by the bagful, their long, clumsy bean pods split opened, beans extracted and eaten alongside their classic team mates, pecorino cheese and salami. The other, holy trinity.
Broad Beans, Pecorino and Salami ~ Fave, Pecorino e Salame
Bag yourself some fresh fave – go for younger beans whose sugar has not yet turned to starch and whose insides are tender and sweet. Lay the long pods out on serving plate. Find yourself some sharp, pecorino cheese, and some salty salami or prosciutto crudo and add them to your plate. Compliment your delicious spread with some fresh bread and a bottle of wine. Job done
